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Jay Gardner
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| Joined: | Thu Jan 6th, 2005 |
| Location: | Michigan USA |
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Posted: Mon Nov 10th, 2008 12:44 am |
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On my way home from the grouse woods yesterday I started thinking about how I clean my guns at the end of a day in the field and what I should be doing but am not.
Wood - I always wipe the wood down with a soft dry rag and from time to time I'll wipe it down with Clenzoil, making sure to wipe the wood dry before putting the gun away. Sometimes I will use Ren Wax but I never know it I am using it properly. Do you do anything to the wood before you apply Ren Wax? How much do you use and how do you buff it off? What do you do about the checkering?
Barrels (outside) - I probably should wax them, as well, but I never have. Should they be degreased prior to applying and polishing it? How do you degrease them?
Barrels (inside) - after cleaning them to the point that patches pass clean do you use a wool mop to leave a thin coat of oil?
Hinge - light coat of oil or do you use a high quality grease?
Guess I am asking for the best protocpl for giving an old gal a good overall cleaning. Once bird season is over, spending an evening with a couple of fingers of hooch and taking time to give each Parker is more of a pleasure than a job I just want to make sure it is time well spent.
Thanks for your advice,
JDG
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Weathered corn, an apple left unnoticed on the tree, the crunch of frosted stubble underfoot, wood smoke in the evening - these things remind me of the wild, fall days of boyhood...the best of those days were the Saturday's, afield with my dad.
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Chris Travinski
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| Joined: | Wed Mar 22nd, 2006 |
| Location: | Connecticut USA |
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Posted: Mon Nov 10th, 2008 12:01 pm |
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Jay,
After I clean the bores, I like to take a can of fast drying solvent (BirchwoodCasey, Hoppes, KG etc) and wash down the bores, ejector rods, and the hook on the bottom of the barres, and a quick wash to the outside. Then wipe down the bores w/ an oiled mop, oil the ejector rods and hook and use a silicone cloth to wipe off extra oil and coat barrels. Next take the cleaner and wash out the action by holding the butt end up in the air, you can flush any gunk out the front. Oil the appropriate moving ponts and put it back together. Then I take the silicone cloth again and wipe down the entire gun wood and all. Just make sure all metal has some silicone or oil on it.
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Joe Bernfeld
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Posted: Mon Nov 10th, 2008 03:43 pm |
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Jay, I wipe off dirt and fingerprints after a day of hunting and put her away. At the end of the season, I clean the bores with Hoppe's and oil lightly. I wipe down the stock with a mixture of Tru-oil, mineral spirits and artists' cold pressed linseed oil. I oil metal to metal moving parts occaisionally (I don't use grease) and that's about it.
FWIW, Joe
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Dave Suponski
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| Joined: | Thu Jan 6th, 2005 |
| Location: | Connecticut USA |
| Posts: | 650 |
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Posted: Mon Nov 10th, 2008 04:41 pm |
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Jay,I may be a little different than most.But I clean the bores with Hoppes after every time I shoot the gun. I then lube the hinge with a tiny dab of Super-Lube.After all is clean I wipe the whole gun down with Ballistol and put it away.I would never use silicone on ANY of my guns especially the wood.
Dave...
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Dave Suponski
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Posted: Mon Nov 10th, 2008 06:10 pm |
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Last edited on Mon Nov 10th, 2008 06:11 pm by Dave Suponski
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Forrest Smith
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| Joined: | Wed May 9th, 2007 |
| Location: | South Texas |
| Posts: | 124 |
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Posted: Tue Nov 11th, 2008 01:10 am |
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Stock-damp cloth to remove grim and dust, thin coat of linseed oil rubbed vigorously before & after season. Brush gunk from checkering as needed with soft bristlebrush.
Barrels-Hoppes inside and out to loosen/remove gunk, brush chambers (most important) & clean througout, coat all in 3 in 1 oil. Put a bead of oil down side of ribs-thats a prob. spot I've found. I clean barrels after every shoot-as our salty air doesn't bode well for insides of Parker barrels, much easier to clean that way too.
Action-wipe down with 3 in 1 oil soaked cloth, store butt down, forearm out. Clean locking lug, bolt plate and bolt with Hoppes on a q-tip when rough to close. Make sure to wipe any oil that get on stock off. Very lightly oil top lever/bolt if things get rough feeling.
I got a gun back from Del Grego once that was astonishingly dry inside and out compared to what I used to do-since then I try to keep the same, I figure they lubricated what needed to be. Parker hang tags don't ask for much either, and I guarantee the generation or two before us didn't do half as much for these guns as we do-but we gotta obsess as my wife says!
FS
Last edited on Tue Nov 11th, 2008 01:15 am by Forrest Smith
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Paul D Narlesky
PGCA Member
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Posted: Wed Nov 12th, 2008 02:18 pm |
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| Hello All, I have heard great things about Ballistol. Where can I get some ? and does it build up on metal parts. I appreciate your input ! Best,Paul
____________________
" Some days you get the Bear, Some days the Bear gets you!"
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Dave Suponski
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Posted: Wed Nov 12th, 2008 04:29 pm |
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Paul,It will not build up at all.Check their website.I think it is Ballistol.com or sum such.The distributor is in Georgia I think.
Dave....
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Dean Romig
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| Joined: | Fri Jan 7th, 2005 |
| Location: | Andover, Ma |
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Posted: Wed Nov 12th, 2008 05:06 pm |
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I am a recent convert to Ballistol thanks to Dave 
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Paul D Narlesky
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Posted: Wed Nov 12th, 2008 10:14 pm |
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| Thanks Gentlemen, for the replies on the Ballistol, are any of the chain stores like Lowes or Home depot carrying it or should I just buy online ? Sounds like it is great stuff. Best,Paul
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" Some days you get the Bear, Some days the Bear gets you!"
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Dave Suponski
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Posted: Wed Nov 12th, 2008 10:49 pm |
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Paul,Years ago I used to buy it from a local locksmith here in town.But now my favorite shotgun store carries it.I don,t know if the big box stores carry it.If you really don,t want to but it online I can always pick you up a can and forward it to ya.
Dave....
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Paul D Narlesky
PGCA Member
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Posted: Thu Nov 13th, 2008 05:01 am |
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| Thanks for the replies Gentlemen, I am going to try two locksmiths and then I order online, and the Best of Bird seasons to you all. Paul
____________________
" Some days you get the Bear, Some days the Bear gets you!"
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James DiSpagno
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Posted: Fri Nov 14th, 2008 12:52 am |
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Go to Ebay and type in ballistol Many different sizes and quantities available in Buy it now. Great stuff, as I have been using it for @ 10 years. To defoul barrels, plug muzzle ends and stand in a container, fill both bbls. with ballistol and let stand for @48 hrs. then empty and clean as usual. You would be amazed at what comes out.
Good luck. Jim
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Jonathan Taylor
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| Location: | Massachusetts |
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Posted: Tue Nov 18th, 2008 05:22 am |
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Cleaning guns... better than sex! Anyway... when I was a kid, I couldn't have dinner until my guns were spotless. So now that I am older (ohhh, so old), and shoot a lot, with many different firearms, several years ago I ran across a product called Dunk-It. It is a fabulous degreaser and cleaner. It was designed primarily for handguns, but what I have done is buy a blueing tank and cover, put sticky foam tape on the underside of the cover to match the outline of the tank (no fumes escape, but they aren't bad anyway) and I can just drop a barrel up to 36" or a whole action into the tank, using pieces of wire to retrieve the parts. Let the parts soak for 5-10 minutes and everything comes out remarkably clean. After wiping everything off, or using compressed air, you can coat various parts to your liking... oil, solvent, wax etc. DUNKIT comes in 4 gal buckets, or smaller if you need it. Makes gun cleaning very fast. About $95 for 4 gal. and I got mine from the comany that makes it, called Cylinder and Slide Shop.
J V Taylor
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J.V. Taylor
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Greg Miller
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| Joined: | Tue Sep 30th, 2008 |
| Location: | Connecticut USA |
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Posted: Wed Nov 19th, 2008 06:51 pm |
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Why no Grease? For direct metal to metal high pressure joints, I would think a light coating of one of the gun specific synthetics would be superior to a typical oil. I do not use much, as one does not want to attract dirt.
Also, I saw a reference to 3in1, I am told that one should not use 3:1 as it can remove the case hardening color. Not sure if that is true, but seems like these days we have alternatives.
Anyone have more expertise on lubricants?
Greg Miller
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Bruce Day
PGCA Member
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Posted: Wed Nov 19th, 2008 08:02 pm |
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Pro-Shot grease on the hinge parts, bolt bite and ejector slides. A drop of Rem Oil on the lever shaft. Nothing on the trigger mechanism. Oil runs, grease stays put.
Spray the frame and barrels down with Puglisi Perfume ( EEZOX).
Then its good for the next year.
Last edited on Wed Nov 19th, 2008 08:04 pm by Bruce Day
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Bruce Day
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Dave Suponski
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Posted: Wed Nov 19th, 2008 09:26 pm |
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| Greg,Please reread my first post.
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Larry Frey
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Posted: Thu Nov 20th, 2008 12:06 am |
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Cleaning guns... better than sex!
Jonathan, my wife is already jealous of how much time I spend fondling my Parkers. If I ever repeated your statement I would be sleeping in the garage.
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Graham Morrison
Member
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Posted: Thu Nov 20th, 2008 08:49 am |
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Greetings for South Africa. I have two Parker shotguns one a 20 gauge built in 1900 and another a 12 gauge built in 1919. I'm not sure how many Parkers are in this country but these two found their way to me! The 20 is in great condition appearing to have beeen little used and still has good colour on the action. The 12 however has a broken stock that thas been professionally repaired and has seen a fair amount of use otherwise the action is still tight.
My question is what is the chamber length of these two guns, it appears to me that the 12 has 2½" chambers and I'm not sure what the 20 has. What is the generally accepted shell for these two guns?
Can anyone give me any direction here?
Graham Morrison,
Durban, South Africa.
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Graham Morrison
Member
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Posted: Thu Nov 20th, 2008 08:49 am |
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Greetings for South Africa. I have two Parker shotguns one a 20 gauge built in 1900 and another a 12 gauge built in 1919. I'm not sure how many Parkers are in this country but these two found their way to me! The 20 is in great condition appearing to have beeen little used and still has good colour on the action. The 12 however has a broken stock that thas been professionally repaired and has seen a fair amount of use otherwise the action is still tight.
My question is what is the chamber length of these two guns, it appears to me that the 12 has 2½" chambers and I'm not sure what the 20 has. What is the generally accepted shell for these two guns?
Can anyone give me any direction here?
Graham Morrison,
Durban, South Africa.
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